Cannas are among the most colorful time bulbs–as flamboyant as their tropical American ancestry–with rippled spikes lessening to refined buds.

Sometimes announced “canna lilies” these perennials are unrelated to true-blue lilies. They came to see you a massive variety of color and boast gigantic, often-veined, paddle-shaped leaves and sheathing leafstalks in subtleties of dark-green or bronze.

With their immense reedy canes and palmy foliage, cannas would be magnificent even if they never bloomed. However, they impede blossoming from late springtime or early summer to frost.

Turn-of-the-century gardeners so adored cannas that they grew them from seed, but this isn’t easy; better to leave propagation to experts and buy the tubers.


How to Plant Cannas Exotic, humid creatures, cannas need lots of sunshine and fertile, moist soil–but you don’t have to pamper them. Cannas can be started in the house in small-minded jackpots if your gardening season is suddenly. Where not intrepid, flora outdoors in early summer–around the same time you’d framed tomato plants in the sand. See our Planting Calendar for times in your region. Before embed, slackened the soil to a extent of 12 to 15 inches, then mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost. To flower, dig a puncture 2 to 3 inches deep and initiate the rhizome in the hole, gazes up. Window-dressing with soil and tamp securely. Water completely. Opening rhizomes 1 to 4 hoofs apart. Note: If you change from grain, be aware that the germination proportion is low and the seeds need to be filed or given an acid bath to break down their hard coat.


How to Care for Cannas Cannas do best with a good quantity of sea, so irrigate the weeds during the summer if the rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Water freely in a cool spell. Hold a thin mantle of mulch around cannas to help retain moisture as well. Post tall hodgepodges if needed. As flowers fade, deadhead to promote sustained budding. After the flower stem has been deadheaded several times and is no longer producing buds, chipped the flower stem and any attached foliage to the ground, as this can help nearby cannas get more light-colored and flower themselves.( If “youd prefer”, just cut the root back to the foliage, which will last until the first frost .) After autumn frost sears the foliage, remove the roots and leaves. See your neighbourhood frost dates. In the deep South, cause cannas grow without moving them until the bunches thrive exceedingly matted. Every 3 to four years in the winter, dig up the gobs, separate the roots, and seed them in well-enriched soil.

Pests/ Ailments

Slugs, snails, spider mites, and caterpillars may be troubles. Rust, fungal leaf smudge, and bacterial disease are common. Bean yellow-bellied mosaic and tomato recognise wilt viruses can happen.

Harvest/ Storage

Cannas are winter hardy in Zones 7 and warmer. Otherwise, you’ll need to lift the rhizomes for winter storage. Store in barely-moist peat or leaf mold in frost-free modes. Space rhizomes so that they are not touching. See more details below. Note: While some gardeners in regions as cold as Zone 7 have received information that their cannas are getting through the winter without being dug up, be sure to protect the tubers with a heavy bed of mulch.

If you need to lift your cannas, do so right after the first killing frost in sink. Dig one foot away from the stanch so that the rhizome is not damaged. Loosen the grunge and lift out the bunch. Shake off the grime and lop off the foliage. Accumulation cannas over the winter in a dry region at 45 to 50 magnitudes F( often an attic or vault ). Don’t let them dry out; disperse the beach or soil around them, if necessary. In early spring, generally after the tulips have bloomed, divide the seeds. Made to ensure that each partitioned portion has at least one node, which is where brand-new leaves will be increased from in accepting seasons. Then embed 4 to 5 inches deep and 1 to 4 hoofs apart. They will bloom in 10 to 12 weeks.

Recommended Smorgasbord

Dwarf cannas abide under 3 hoofs towering and are easy to fit into our downsized modern gardens. The 2-1/ 2-foot-tall’ Picasso’ is a yellow-flowered dwarf peppered with freckles. Guideline motleys grow 4 to 6 paws towering and need a 20 – to 24 -inch halo for each hand-size rhizome.’ The President’ is red,’ Yellow King Humbert’ spotless,’ Rosamond Cole’ orange-edged gold, and’ City of Portland’ salmon pink. Many gardeners enjoy the remarkable, drought-tolerant selections that reach heights of over 6 feet. One pearl is the rich, deep pink’ Los Angeles’, which has a large floret and opens out so that you can see the face. ‘Bengal Tiger’ is stupefying even when it’s not blooming, with green-and-yellow-striped, maroon-edged leaves and bright-orange heydays.