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Enxaneta in a nutshell
A restaurant within a diner, the Enxaneta dining room boasts two complex savor menus of Mediterranean staples and razor-sharp, ingredient-centred meals reinvented through the lens of the gastronomic imagery of Michelin-favourite Paco Perez.
The inventive seeing of Paco( who currently maintains six Michelin suns across his restaurants throughout the world) is being carried out by protegee Miquel Villacrosa, himself a student at Miramar and then master at Berlin’s Restaurant Cinco. Catalonian by birth and by prejudice, Miquel’s childhood in a mountain town with a stature for competition and greenery is self-evident from his pleasurable presentation of the region’s terroir.
What’s the vibe?
The 16 -cover space is an stylish shower of teal, the tables unfussily adorned with irreproachable linen and a single bee-embossed tile. The dedicated kitchen is walled with crema-catalana-hued tiles from the region’s prominent ceramic towns.
The opening is an luxurious launder of teal, the tables unfussily adorned with spotless linen and a single bee-embossed tile
What’s the nutrient like?
Catalonian meat is of a demonstrably different tell than Spain’s, owing just as much to Marseille and Milan as to Madrid. The two seasonal savouring menus( 10 courses or 15) on offer at Enxaneta are an education in this difference.
The well-paced sequencing opens with a tea-dark mushroom consomme whose first sip is a brawny blow that softens into licorice. The middle area is perhaps the most exciting, beginning with an unctuous tartare of bluefin tuna and ocean urchin before refreshing the palate with an elBulli-esque reinvention of lettuce peas. Icily nitrogenous pea crumble tops coatings of pea consomme, a very warm disc of emerald jelly and the stalky aroma of pea shoot essence.
Icily nitrogenous pea crumble tops blankets of pea consomme, a very warm disc of emerald jelly and the stalky bouquet of pea shoot center
Next comes a trio of stellar recipes conventional of Paco Perez’s reputation for rich, charitable saucing. The langoustine cannelloni mixtures France and Italy in a thin tube that balances the sweetened shellfish against a heady bechamel. The ocean cucumber carbonara makes the ugliest of beings and turns it into a movie star, cooking it as al dente pasta ropes fastened with dense, eggy sauce. The sole meuniere is overweight and firm, accompanied by mussels and a mussel ointment ravioli.
The langoustine cannelloni combinations France and Italy in a thin tube that balances the sweetened shellfish against a heady bechamel
Barbecued wagyu fillet is served with a light-colored and foaming quilt of polenta as a foil for the thin, uncommon wedges of fat-marbled beef. But it’s the wagyu tartare which plagiarizes the support with its embankment of sangria-red sweet meat set off by woody micro herbs and shred of truffled egg yolk. It’s a saucer that goes to show don’t necessary all the meat, exactly the right meat.
Pijama, a much-loved Catalonian flan with fresh fruit and paste, is helped as a shockingly fresh berry soup with flan ice cream: the perfect room to round off an exciting, difficult and merriment menu.
And the drinks?
The two wine-coloured pairings( seven glass for the 10 trend menu and nine glasses for the 15 courses) are reliably heavy with the regions and national beloveds but grapes from Italy, France and the New world see, too.
You might feel so overwhelmed by the menu that when asked if you would like bread you say no. This would be a mistake. You crave this bread. You deserve this bread.
Enxaneta at Tast Cuina Catalana, 20 -2 2 King Street, Manchester, M2 6AG
Words by Stephen Connolly
Photographs by TAST